I'm sitting here in a cottage, in a field on a quiet little back road, between Ballingary and Adare in Co Limerick, Ireland.
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| Adare Field Cottage |
The local birds are saying their good nights to each other as the sun goes down outside the kitchen window, though with summer time it will still be light for some time yet.
We've had a very busy week so far,
So.... to the story so far.
With a complimentary stopover in Dubai,after a 10 hour flight, we managed to get a few hours sleep before another seven hours to Dublin.So a good night's sleep at an airport hotel before heading in to Dublin in the morning. We reached our Hostel on the banks of the Liffey, deposited the bags and off on shank's pony we went to see as much as possible.
So, Day 1...
It's freezing cold and damp, A walk along the river to the Christ Church Cathedral precinct, we find a cafe to in which plan the next few days. It's too far to walk back to the hostel so we grab a lift on the HOHO . (Hop On Hop Off)
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| Christ Church |
The HOHO bus is a god send as we complete one whole trip to acquaint ourselves with the city and stay warm. It's an early night tonight.
Day 2 sunny and cold
Glasnevin cemetry.
It's not too far to walk, he says. And while it wasn't, my poor old feet suffered from badly fitting shoes. It's a fascinating cemetery, as they go.
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| The Royal Canal |
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| Brendan Behan |
Along the way we find Brendan Behan sitting alongside The Royal Canal. We climbed Connell's Tower (198 steps) for a panoramic view of the city, and the start of our history lesson on the 1916 Easter Rising. All over the city of Dublin are permanent memorials to the memory of those who fought in the Rising throughout the city during Easter week 1916 and as it is also Easter week now, these are quite poignant reminders of the lengths people are prepared to go for their freedom..
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| Phil Lynott |
Our next lesson is far more prosaic as we join on to the end of a tour of the Dublin Rock and Roll museum, which takes place in a working recording studio in the centre of the Temple Bar area. U2 are by far the standout performers of today, but there have been so many more not the least in my time names such as, Rory Gallagher, Thin Lizzy, Phil Linnott, Van Morrison ( though from Belfast has recorded at these studios) Bob Geldoff and Boomtown Rats. Sad to say there were no stars in session today.
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| Rory Gallagher Corner |
What to do after a trip down the musical memory lane? Why have a drink of course. First to Teelings Whiskey Distillery and then on to the Guinness Storehouse for another freebie and another panoramic view of the city, this time from the other side of town. The Guinness tour was quite business like and corporate, while the Teelings one was much more personal and fun. Both drinks were enjoyed immensely.
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| The Guinness Grin |
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| Teeling's Whiskey |
We'd almost forgotten to put Trinity Library and the Book of Kells on our list of things to do. So as it was getting late we quickly jumped on the end of the very last queue for the day.
The illuminated manuscript of the book of Kells is something to behold and there is a very good accompanying exhibition explaining how it was made.
However the item that completely took my breath away was far bigger and more profound.
After looking at the Book of Kells you head up stairs, walk around a corner to enter the Trinity University library.
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| Trinity College Library |
Walking into this wonderful space very nearly bought me to tears, I can't explain why, but I was left speechless as I first saw the shelves upon shelves and rows upon rows of precious books and manuscripts held here. Centuries of knowledge within these walls.
If I had to leave Dublin now I'd be happy.
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| St Stephen's Green |
Day 3 warming up
Today started with a walk through St Stephens Green gardens.
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| Famine Memorial |
Followed by a visit to the Little Museum of Dublin, which is a walk through time in an old house on the edge of St Stephen's Green near the Shellbourne Hotel. We had a real leprechaun describe all the the museum had to offer.
From here to Dublin Castle and a visit through the State Rooms and lunch in the cafe before heading further back in time to the viking era of Dublin at Dublinia and a visit into the interior of Christchurch Cathedral. Interesting, in that I haven't seen a Catholic church yet. I suspect they don't lower themselves to have tour groups invade their hallowed spaces.
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| Dublin Castle State Room |
Dinner in Temple Bar again.
Day 4 Sun's out, Jackets off
We attempted to Skype with Tom, ended up jut calling and having a chat with him.
A longish walk along the Liffey took us to EPIC (Every Person Is Connected) a permanent installment describing the Irish Diaspora and how the world over there are Irish connections. There's so much more to it than that.I spent about an hour at the Irish genealogy centre, but didn't have much luck with the minimal information I have on the couple of people I hoped to trace in Dublin.
(Family Tree notes: Looking for Simon and Ellen (Hickey) Owens, Nan Williams paternal grandparents and Emily Louisa McAuley, Pop Williams maternal grandmother.)
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| Malahide Castle |
We then hopped on a regular bus for the half hour trip out to Malahide Castle. It was lived in regularly until quite recently and the rooms we saw were quite lovely with some fascinating stories told by the guide. On to another bus and back to the airport to collect our hire car, a Dacia "Duster" what a crap name. The car itself is quite comfy and as Rick says as it has a sat nav, it has probably saved a few terse words over the past couple of days.
So after finding an all night car park it was Pizza for tea and an early night.
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| Last crossing of the Liffey |
Day 5, shirt sleeves today
Dublin to Adare. It's Easter Saturday and I am woken by the happy strains of Rick cheering the Dockers on to a win. Off in the car, out of the city and our first stop is Baltinglass Abbey,( the ruins of)
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| Baltinglass Abbey |
I will soon come to realise that if we stopped at every ruined castle, abbey and fortification we'll never get anywhere. it's almost as though every other farm has a ruin on their property, some seem to be just outside the back door.
Next stop for lunch is Kilkenny Castle.
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| Lunch Kilkenny Castle |
Kilkenny is a really nice town. It as been spruced out to cater to the many tourists who come to the castle to picnic on the large lawn space along side the river.
Family Tree Notes: Michael Forrestal was born in Kilkenny, Nan Williams maternal grandfather)
Next major town is Tipperary, which is not nearly as tourist oriented, more gritty and a more real working town I guess. Time was getting on by now so we had a cuppa picked up a few things for tea and came on down to our little cottage in the field.
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| The View across the fields |
Family Tree Notes: Catherine (Kate) Darcy, wife of M. Forrestal, Nan Williams maternal grandmother was born here in Tipperary)
It's quite a sweet little place and after having a very small bedroom and bathroom for the last week it's a pleasure to have bit of space. The owner came along last night to show us how to light the oil fire when he realizes that his son hadn't.. just as well or we might have frozen.
Day 6 foggy morning sunny afternoon cool wind
The plan was to go to Limerick to the Milkmarket for supplies. Hmm it's Easter Sunday isn't it?
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| King John"s Castle Limerick |
Instead, after a bit of a wander we left and headed out to the Atlantic coast to see the Cliffs of Moher. Along with about a million other holiday makers. It took about half an hour to queue to get into the car park but it was worth it. The cliffs are spectacular and as we actually had a clear day I think we are pretty lucky.
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| We Two |
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| The Cliffs of Moher |
After a side trip to Doolin for a coffee and late lunch, it was time to go home. It was a long day, Rick enjoyed rally driving along the close and winding roads. With a break now and then on the Motorway.
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| Doolin Town |
